Matt, Eggshell, Satin or Gloss? Choosing Paint Finishes Room by Room

Sheen, finish and washability: three different things

Shops and tins blur three ideas into one. Finish is the name: matt, eggshell, satin, silk, gloss. Sheen is the number behind the name, the share of light the dried paint reflects, normally printed as a percentage. Washability is a separate test of how well the dried film survives scrubbing. You choose well when you check all three on the tin, not only the name.

The first catch is that the names are not standardised. Wikipedia’s article on paint sheen says so directly: the terms are not standardised and not every manufacturer uses all of them^[1]. The chart below puts three published scales side by side. Wikipedia has matt below 10% and eggshell at 10–15%^[1]. Tikkurila’s UK guide runs matt from 5% to 10% and calls the 11–35% band semi-matt, also known as eggshell^[2]. Homes & Gardens gives eggshell as 10–25% and groups satin, velvet and silk at 25–35%^[3]. The word ‘eggshell’ stretches from a 10–15% band on one scale to an 11–35% band on another.

So the working rule for the rest of this guide is simple. Treat the name as a rough label and the percentage as the fact. If a tin gives no sheen figure, ask the maker or the shop, or compare tins side by side on the wall.

The finishes in plain English

Here is the usual ladder from flattest to shiniest, with the two UK scales that give numbers for each rung. Where a source does not list a finish, the cell says so.

Two things to notice. First, Homes & Gardens separates satin and silk from eggshell, while Tikkurila does not list satin at all, so a Tikkurila semi-matt at the top of its band overlaps with what others sell as satin. Second, the F&B example is useful: Farrow & Ball’s Estate Emulsion is 2% and its Modern Emulsion is 7%, and Homes & Gardens notes that 7% is still technically matt but near the top, because “10 per cent is usually the cut-off”^[5]. A 3-point gap on a tin can change how a wall behaves in a hall.

What sheen does to a wall

Light is the whole story. Tikkurila describes matt as absorbing light and looking softer on the wall, while gloss reflects light and brings out colour; it adds that gloss finishes “highlight every flaw”^[4]. Wikipedia agrees from the other direction: a gloss finish reveals surface imperfections such as sanding marks, so gloss demands more careful preparation^[1].

There is a trade-off in durability and upkeep. Wikipedia reports that matt paints have less binder and are more prone to mechanical damage, that glossy paint can lose its sheen if abraded, and that gloss is generally more resistant to damage and staining and easier to clean^[1]. Tikkurila puts it plainly: the glossier the surface, the less dirt adheres to it, and cleaning dirt from matt is harder^[4]. One advantage of flat paint, from the same Wikipedia page, is that it can often be touched up locally without repainting the whole surface^[1].

Rule of thumb, not a sourced figure: raking light from a window running along a wall magnifies every ripple in the plaster, and the higher the sheen the more it magnifies. If you have to choose between a kinder finish and a flatter wall, fixing the wall (see our guide to painting a room in the right order) beats going flatter.

Washability: the number that matters in a hall or kitchen

Sheen tells you how a wall looks. EN 13300, the European standard for interior wall paints, grades how it survives being rubbed. Rawlins Paints sets out the wet-abrasion classes: class 1 loses under 5 micrometres (µm) of film after 200 strokes, class 2 loses 5–20 µm, class 3 loses 20–70 µm, and classes 4 and 5 are measured over only 40 strokes, with class 4 losing under 70 µm and class 5 losing 70 µm or more^[6]. Because the stroke counts differ, read the class number on the tin, not the micrometre figures, when comparing.

Green Shop Paints turns the classes into plain English: class 1 is very durable and highly wipeable, class 2 is washable, class 3 allows limited cleaning, class 4 is very limited, and class 5 is not washable^[7]. A second Green Shop page repeats that class 1 is the most durable finish, suited to frequent wiping, washing and scrubbing^[8]. The test itself is a repeated wet scrub of a painted surface, and the less paint wears away the higher the class^[7].

The two pages I read do not tie the class to the sheen, so I will not claim that glossier always means a better class. Check both numbers. The Farrow & Ball pairing shows why: Estate Emulsion (2%) is described as wipeable but not washable, while Modern Emulsion (7%) is described as washable, scuff-resistant and mould-resistant^[5]. That is a brand-specific claim reported by a magazine, so confirm it on the tin.

What you need before you buy

• The technical data sheet or tin label for every paint you are comparing: sheen %, EN 13300 wet-scrub class, and whether it is rated for bathrooms or kitchens.
• A tape measure and a note of each room: what it is used for, how much steam, grease or traffic it sees.
• A torch or phone light held flat along the wall, to see the flaws that a gloss will show.
• Tester pots or large sample boards in the shortlisted sheens, not only colours.
• An honest list of the wall’s problems: patches, hairline cracks, old filler, lining paper.

How to choose: five steps

1. Name the surface. Ceiling, wall, woodwork or ornament. Each has its own usual finish (see the room-by-room section).
2. Rate the abuse. Low (bedroom), medium (living room), high (hall, kitchen, child’s room), wet (bathroom). High and wet rooms need a higher class on the tin and often a higher sheen.
3. Inspect the wall. Shine a light along it. If you can see ripples, patches or filler, step down in sheen or fix the wall first.
4. Compare numbers, not names. Put the sheen % and the EN 13300 class from each tin side by side.
5. Test in the room. Paint a sample board, tape it to the wall, and look at it in morning and evening light. A finish looks different on a large wall than on a small sample (a rule of thumb, not a sourced figure).

Room by room

Ceilings

Flat is the usual recommendation^[3], and Tikkurila names full matt because its non-reflective finish suits ceilings and reduces glare^[4]. Our guide to ceiling colour covers colour; the finish should stay flat.

Living rooms and bedrooms

Matt is the common answer in both guides: a soft, velvet-like look with good colour depth^[4], and it looks rich in darker shades^[3]. Homes & Gardens adds eggshell for busier lounges, and notes distemper also suits bedrooms^[3].

Hallways, stairs and children’s rooms

This is where they split. Homes & Gardens recommends eggshell for hallways because it handles frequent contact^[3]; Tikkurila recommends semi-gloss for hallways and children’s rooms where frequent cleaning is likely^[4]. A washable matt such as a 7% emulsion is the third option, as Homes & Gardens suggests for high-traffic areas^[5]. Choose by wall condition: smooth walls can take the higher sheen, patched walls cannot.

Kitchens

Homes & Gardens recommends gloss for durability and moisture resistance and satin for cabinets^[3]; Tikkurila says semi-gloss for grease, since it can be scrubbed repeatedly^[4]. For doors and cabinets Tikkurila goes up to gloss or full gloss^[4].

Bathrooms

Gloss is Homes & Gardens’ usual choice, satin works in low-moisture bathrooms, and it warns that standard eggshell can peel in damp conditions unless it is acrylic or a bathroom-specific formula^[3]. Tikkurila again says semi-gloss^[4]. In every case, check that the tin names bathrooms.

Woodwork, doors and trim

Tikkurila suggests semi-gloss or gloss to set trim apart from the walls^[4]. Homes & Gardens favours gloss for trim and high-traffic details, with satin or eggshell as subtler options^[3].

Period homes and plaster

Homes & Gardens lists several breathable matt finishes for older properties: limewash for porous surfaces such as brick, stone or lime plaster; clay paint, which it says suits period homes with condensation but should avoid damp walls and the areas behind sinks and cookers; and distemper, a powdery matt that is not hard-wearing, so it should be kept away from high-traffic areas^[3]. Mylands and other makers sell their own lime-plaster paints, so follow the maker’s instructions; for background see lime plaster versus gypsum plaster and limewash and imperfect plaster. For plaster ornament, see the best paint for plaster details.

Worked example: a 1930s semi

Imagine you are standing in a shop with three tins, and four rooms to paint. The numbers below are invented for the example; the bands they are checked against come from the sources above.

• Tin A: flat matt, 2% sheen, class 4.
• Tin B: matt, 7% sheen, class 2.
• Tin C: eggshell, 20% sheen, class 1.

Ceilings. Tin A. Its 2% sits inside both the 0–3% flat band^[3] and Tikkurila’s full-matt 0–4%^[2]. Class 4 (very limited cleaning) is no problem overhead.

Main bedroom. If the walls were patched after rewiring, use Tin A: the lowest sheen hides the patches. If they are smooth, Tin B (7%, class 2) is matt on both scales and survives the odd wipe.

Hallway. Tin C. Its 20% falls inside Homes & Gardens’ 10–25% eggshell band and Tikkurila’s 11–35% semi-matt band, and class 1 is highly wipeable. The price of that sheen is that it shows flaws, so fill and sand first.

Family bathroom. None of the three. Homes & Gardens warns against standard eggshell in a bathroom unless it is an acrylic or bathroom-specific formula^[3]. Buy a bathroom-rated semi-gloss or gloss, or use Tin C only if its label allows bathrooms.

Result: three tins cover three of the four rooms, and the fourth needs a different product. That is the normal outcome, and the reason to shop by room rather than by colour first.

Common mistakes

• Choosing by name. “Eggshell” on one brand can be a 10–15% paint and on another 35%. Read the percentage.
• Gloss on a poor wall. Gloss reveals imperfections, so it needs a flat, well-sanded surface^[1].
• Standard eggshell in a steamy bathroom. Homes & Gardens warns it can peel with moisture^[3].
• Ignoring the class. Two matts can differ hugely in how they take a wipe; the EN 13300 class is the guide.
• Matt in a hall without checking. Matt marks more easily and is harder to clean^[4].
• Testing on a tiny dry sample under shop lights. Look at a large board, in your own light, once it has fully dried.
• Forgetting touch-ups. Flat paint touches up locally, gloss does not hide the join^[1].

Quick reference

These are starting points drawn from the published guidance, not rules. The sheen bands differ by source, so the figures above are Tikkurila’s for the first column.

Glossary

Sheen

The share of light the dried paint reflects, usually given as a percentage.

Gloss unit (GU)

A measure of reflected light at a set angle. The sources I read give percentages and do not state the measuring angle, so GUs and percentages are not interchangeable here.

Flat / full matt

The lowest sheen, 0–4% on Tikkurila’s scale.

Eggshell / semi-matt

A low-to-mid sheen, 10–25% or 11–35% depending on the source.

Satin / silk

A mid-sheen, 25–35% in Homes & Gardens’ guide.

EN 13300

The European standard that grades interior wall paints, including wet-scrub resistance in classes 1 to 5.

Cutting in

Painting the edges with a brush before rolling.

What to do next

1. Write down the sheen % and class for each paint you like.
2. Buy tester pots in your shortlisted finishes and paint large boards.
3. Read our guide to painting a room in the right order so the prep matches the finish.
4. If you are repainting plaster details, see can you paint a plaster ceiling rose.
5. If your house is pre-1960s, read the lead-paint notes in the painting guide before sanding anything.

Keep reading

• How to paint a room in the right order
• Colour drenching: how to paint a room in one colour
• Choosing colours for a period home
• The fifth wall: ideas for painting the ceiling
• Choosing the best paint for plaster details

Shop the look

Duchess Ceiling RoseLuna Japandi Wall Light

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between matt and eggshell?

Eggshell is shinier than matt. On Tikkurila's UK scale matt is 5-10% and semi-matt (eggshell) is 11-35%; on Homes & Gardens' scale matte is 3-10% and eggshell is 10-25%. Check the percentage on the tin because the names are not standardised.

What paint finish is best for a bathroom?

Both UK guides I read recommend a glossier finish: Homes & Gardens usually gloss, with satin for low-moisture rooms, and Tikkurila semi-gloss. Homes & Gardens warns that standard eggshell can peel with moisture, so use one that is acrylic or bathroom-specific.

What finish should I use in a hallway?

Homes & Gardens recommends eggshell because it handles frequent contact, Tikkurila recommends semi-gloss for hallways, and a washable 7% matt is a third option. Smooth walls can take the higher sheen; patched walls should stay lower.

What finish is best for ceilings?

Flat or full matt. Homes & Gardens recommends flat (0-3%), and Tikkurila recommends full matt (0-4%) because it does not reflect light and reduces glare.

Should woodwork be satin, eggshell or gloss?

All three are used. Tikkurila suggests semi-gloss or gloss so trim stands apart from the walls. Homes & Gardens favours gloss for trim and high-traffic details and suggests satin or eggshell as subtler options.

Does gloss show wall flaws?

Yes. Wikipedia says a gloss finish reveals surface imperfections such as sanding marks, and Tikkurila says gloss finishes highlight every flaw. Prepare the wall carefully or choose a lower sheen.

What does the EN 13300 class on a paint tin mean?

It grades wet-scrub resistance from class 1 (under 5 micrometres of film lost after 200 strokes, very durable) to class 5 (70 micrometres or more lost after 40 strokes, not washable). Choose a lower class number for hallways, kitchens and children's rooms.

Can matt paint be washable?

Some can. Homes & Gardens describes Farrow & Ball Modern Emulsion, at 7% sheen, as washable and scuff-resistant, while Estate Emulsion at 2% is wipeable but not washable. Confirm the class on the tin of any paint you buy.